PHILADELPHIA—The Village Whiskey’s burger received publicity and praise before. Yet there’s something low-key about this restaurant. I’ve met more than a few locals who heard of it but have yet to visit. I’m going to put it out there: Village Whiskey’s burger is probably the best in existence.
The Burger
I hate to speak with such superlative; let me soften my tone—Village Whiskey’s burger is probably the best in existence. Their burger is so good, it doesn’t need cheese. That’s a good test for a burger.
The Village Burger is an 8 oz patty served with fresh Boston bibb lettuce, tomato, and house-made Thousand Island dressing. The burger is served on a Pain au lait sesame roll. TGG.
I asked the Chef du Cuisine, Yun Fuentes, if the Thousand Island dressing, which they put on the Village Burger, was really house-made. He said it was. His speech and gestures showed subtle signs of excitement, which is the mark of a person who is passionate about what he does. He said they make their own mayonnaise and add chopped fresh olives, capers, red bell peppers, onions, and chives. Then they mix the ingredients with ketchup and smoked tomato compote. They used to include eggs in the dressing recipe but no longer do.
According to Fuentes, their burger is part sirloin, chuck and chuck eye, mixed with fat from Kobe beef. The Village Whiskey is owned by the Garces Restaurant Group. They use a grass-fed beef bought from a farm in Maine.
What I know is what I taste. As I finished the burger, I yearned for more. The burger left a lasting savory taste in my mouth. It’s moist on the inside, slightly crispy on the outside and is perfectly seasoned with salt. Additionally, the burger is not as heavy as it looks. I was not stuffed after eating the burger, just extremely satisfied.
The Fries
Duck Fat French Fries with Sly Fox cheddar sauce. TGG.
For an additional $2.00 you can have them served with melted cheese. According to waiter Trey Shields, the cheese is made from a 3-year aged New York cheddar, heavy cream, a Sly Fox wheat beer, and roasted garlic.
While I awaited seating on my third visit to the Village Whiskey, I spoke with the host, Janine.
She encouraged me to try the cheese fries. I complained that the cheese was lacking something, although I had no idea what.
The Wiz
The melted cheese provided a classic compliment to these delicious French fries. TGG.
When I had first tried the Duck Fat French Fries, I dipped the fries into the cup of cheese and was underwhelmed.
On my second attempt I stared at this beautiful display of food and wondered why I didn’t appreciate something that looks so good. Then I realized that Pat’s Steaks and Geno’s Steaks pour the cheese on top of their fries.
The difference between dipping the fries into the cheese and pouring them on top was crucial. The latter created a delicious compliment.
I enjoyed the melted cheese so much, by the time I had eaten all the fries, I found myself spooning the cheese as if it were a a tasty soup.
The Variant
The BBQ Pork Sammy, made from pulled pork shoulder served with fried pickles on the side.This sandwich is really good but nothing beats the burger. TGG.
On my second visit to the Village Whiskey I sat at the bar next to a man named Sean O’Halloran. He was a friendly guy from South Jersey who ordered a drink called the Painkiller. He had strong opinions about food, and we briefly exchanged a few thoughts.
He ordered the BBQ Pork Sammy, a sandwich made with pulled pork shoulder, Whiskey BBQ sauce with coleslaw on top and fried pickles on the side. His companion ordered the Kentucky Hot Brown, a sandwich with sliced turkey, smoked bacon, and Mornay sauce served on a toasted brioche.
The Cocktail
Village Whiskey bartender, John Borror, mixes an Aviation. According to Craig Bridger in his story Aviation: Drink of the Week in http://www.AskMen.com, the Aviation is “…like the martini’s flashy younger brother.” TGG.
The Aviation. I didn’t try it, but the Painkiller was pretty good. TGG.
The People, the Atmosphere
O’Halloran was not only kind enough to introduce me to the Painkiller but had later informed me of his opinions about the Village Whiskey food. He said the BBQ Pork Sammy was “awesome.” He thought the pork was “nice and tender, meaty with a little bit of smokiness.”
More on the Sammy from O’Halloran: He said the BBQ sauce was “creamy” but “typical.” I agree. It’s tough to make a BBQ Pulled Pork unique. The Village Whiskey puts the coleslaw on top, which adds some diversity in flavor and a pleasant contrast of hot and cold. The sesame bun, also, is a great compliment to this and any of their sandwiches. The bun is soft, light, fluffy and tasty.
Daniel and Marian on vacation from Spain found the right spot for burgers. Marian had the Whiskey King, a burger with maple bourbon-glazed cipollini onions, Rogue bleu cheese, applewood bacon, and foie gras. Be aware: this burger costs $26.00. TGG.
Gillian L. Wakely, originally from Boston, England (the original Boston) and her friend Susan, also from Boston—the one we are more familiar with—have been living in Philadelphia for about 40 years. They eat at Village Whiskey about once a month. Susan enjoys the establishment because the environment is great and the clientele is diverse. Their favorite is the Village Burger; we have something in common. The Village Burger provided the motivation for this story and perhaps the inspiration for having children some day; so, they too, can experience something immensely delicious.
The Village Whiskey’s environment is tight but very comfortable and classy. The bar draws a large crowd at lunchtime; if you can’t get there early, I’d suggest waiting till 1:30 p.m. Even if you have to wait to be seated, it’s a wait well worth it.
The Village Whiskey is located at 118 S. 20th St. (at corner of Sansom and 20th streets) For more information see their website at http://villagewhiskey.com/.
The Good Gusto 